From al di la’s beet casunziei to Frankie’s cavatelli with sausage and sage, certain pasta courses seem as iconically Brooklyn as pizza and hot dogs. And thanks to a welcome pro-carb renaissance these past couple of years, the following noodles are on their way to becoming equally notorious.
LaRina Pastificio & Vino
A strong showing on Top Chef isn’t the only reason to pay Silvia Barban a visit at her Fort Greene newcomer. A veritable pasta palace, you can order noodle-focused tasting menus at LaRina, or go the a la carte route—but whatever you do, don’t miss the penetratingly lemony cones of ruffle-edged gigli, cupped around thyme-spiked clods of velvet duck ragu—which we enthusiastically tapped as one of our favorite dishes of 2016.
387 Myrtle Ave, (718) 852-0001
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Lady’s
A wood-fired oven is always a draw, but the fact that chef Aaron Harsha is a Marea alum should train your eye towards the pasta selection: a treasure trove of earthy chestnut campanelle and the twee, stuffed nurse caps known as cappelletti, coated with burst confit tomatoes and a witty, chewy charcuterie ragu.
572 Fulton St,  (989) 307-2822
Barano
Al DiMeglio may have built his reputation around pizza at Rubirosa, but Barano’s housemade pasta lineup is a total wow. We particularly dig the deviant flavor profiles in a tubular mint maccheroni, amplified with piney juniper berries and a goat and grapefruit ragu.
26 Broadway, (347) 987-4500
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Faun
Back in Brooklyn for the first time since leaving Vinegar Hill House, Brian Leth has devised an Italian-leaning menu at Faun, with a multi-item strong section devoted to pastas. Emphatically wintry specials like beef cheek tagliatelle and spaccatelli with brussels sprouts are blink-and-you’ll-miss-it propositions, but quadrucci (outsized, hand-hacked noodle rags) are a seasonally changing staple, coiled around artichoke, brown butter and black truffle in the colder months, and tomato, basil and nubs of mozzarella come summer.
606 Vanderbilt Ave, (718) 576-6120
Faro
While wheat and grain undergo many permutations at Faro, it goes without saying that the Michelin-starred restaurant is a must for pasta enthusiasts. Look for seldom-seen shapes like strascinati (elongated, orecchiette-esque cups), strozzapreti (chubby, braided twists), and most notably, scarpinocc: “donkey ear” shaped spelt-based purses, swollen with ricotta, and capped with burgundy truffles and wild mushrooms.
436 Jefferson St, (718) 381-8201

 

Lilia-Sheeps-Milk-Cheese-Filled-Agnolotti-768x512Lilia
It’s the rare mention of Lilia that doesn’t contain at least passing reference to the sheep’s milk cheese agnolotti, rosy with saffron and dappled with sundried tomatoes and honey, boldly toeing a razor thin line between savory and sweet.
567 Union Ave, (718) 576-3095

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