From al di la’s beet casunziei to Frankie’s cavatelli with sausage and sage, certain pasta courses seem as iconically Brooklyn as pizza and hot dogs. And thanks to a welcome pro-carb renaissance these past couple of years, the following noodles are on their way to becoming equally notorious.
LaRina Pastificio & Vino
A strong showing on Top Chef isn’t the only reason to pay Silvia Barban a visit at her Fort Greene newcomer. A veritable pasta palace, you can order noodle-focused tasting menus at LaRina, or go the a la carte route—but whatever you do, don’t miss the penetratingly lemony cones of ruffle-edged gigli, cupped around thyme-spiked clods of velvet duck ragu—which we enthusiastically tapped as one of our favorite dishes of 2016.
387 Myrtle Ave, (718) 852-0001
A wood-fired oven is always a draw, but the fact that chef Aaron Harsha is a Marea alum should train your eye towards the pasta selection: a treasure trove of earthy chestnut campanelle and the twee, stuffed nurse caps known as cappelletti, coated with burst confit tomatoes and a witty, chewy charcuterie ragu.
572 Fulton St, (989) 307-2822
Al DiMeglio may have built his reputation around pizza at Rubirosa, but Barano’s housemade pasta lineup is a total wow. We particularly dig the deviant flavor profiles in a tubular mint maccheroni, amplified with piney juniper berries and a goat and grapefruit ragu.
26 Broadway, (347) 987-4500
Back in Brooklyn for the first time since leaving Vinegar Hill House, Brian Leth has devised an Italian-leaning menu at Faun, with a multi-item strong section devoted to pastas. Emphatically wintry specials like beef cheek tagliatelle and spaccatelli with brussels sprouts are blink-and-you’ll-miss-it propositions, but quadrucci (outsized, hand-hacked noodle rags) are a seasonally changing staple, coiled around artichoke, brown butter and black truffle in the colder months, and tomato, basil and nubs of mozzarella come summer.
606 Vanderbilt Ave, (718) 576-6120
While wheat and grain undergo many permutations at Faro, it goes without saying that the Michelin-starred restaurant is a must for pasta enthusiasts. Look for seldom-seen shapes like strascinati (elongated, orecchiette-esque cups), strozzapreti (chubby, braided twists), and most notably, scarpinocc: “donkey ear” shaped spelt-based purses, swollen with ricotta, and capped with burgundy truffles and wild mushrooms.
436 Jefferson St, (718) 381-8201