At first glance, Tilda All Day looks like your average Brooklyn coffee shop—albeit an exceptionally attractive one, its windows flooding sunlight into the already dazzlingly white, MP Shift-designed space, featuring marble tables, geometric detailing, and marigold orange banquettes. But rather than simply serving as a way-station for freelancers, looking to recharge their laptops and revitalize themselves with mugs of Brooklyn-based Parlor java, the Clinton Hill newcomer has a specific mission: Serve a relaxed, refined brunch to restaurant industry workers, who don’t have the luxury of enjoying the midday meal on weekends.
This means Tilda takes its food program especially seriously; instead of sourcing pastries from the outside, chef Claire Welle—formerly of Per Se and Gwynnett St—is fully responsible for the splendid baked goods, including squash-miso pound cake, smoked paprika gougère, sweet potato financier, and diabolically rich bullions of shortbread—basically sticks of butter, with snowdrifts of sugar on top. And while the eatery does the all-day egg bit (available from 7:30am-5pm), it’s the antithesis of diner fare—a sunny side-up oozes yolk over emmenthaler-swaddled brioche, flanked by frills of maitake mushrooms, and the soft scramble sandwich comes piled on a supple poppy seed bun, scattered with scallions and shards of aged cheddar.
Instead of pancakes, composed sweet dishes run to charred peaches and translucent lardo, fanned atop toast; allspice-spiked cereal spooned over housemade skyr; and pain perdu made with panforte, the dense Italian Christmas bread, sticky with fruit and nuts. There are savory, egg-free options too, well befitting a brunch spot; consider the chicken liver, paved with curry-dusted cashews and encircled by apple ribbons, or Tilda’s entry into NYC’s estimable crispy chicken sandwich canon, made tangy with pickles and buttermilk tarragon.
Not that there’s anything keeping you from lingering all day with a laptop and a cup of coffee, but why not follow the lead of industry folk, by taking advantage of Brooklyn’s best week-long brunch?
930 Fulton Street, Clinton Hill