Eight Spots Raging Against The Pumpkin Spice Agenda This Fall

By Rae Witte

Each year, the pumpkin spice agenda creeps in a little earlier, conditioning us to believe—slowly, through a rather sophisticated psy-op that arguably began in July when Starbucks announced its seasonal blockbuster would be returning the following month—it’s appropriate to reach for a hot cinnamon-flavored beverage when a day-trip to Jacob Riis is still a reasonable option. This is patently false, and categorically objectionable—there is nothing autumnal about August in sub-tropical New York City.

But now that fall is actually here, ’tis, in fact, the season to really layer up, take a date to a Dia complex, cosplay suburban, go apple picking, and generally acquaint yourself with all of its other splendid signifiers—whiskey, browned butter, maple, squash, cider, and, of course, the foliage. After all, the flavors of fall could hardly be condensed and contained in one (admittedly very pleasing to the eye) terracota powder. And, as it turns out, you don’t even need to take the Metro North anywhere to explore them.

If you’re wondering where to eat (and how to duck Big Pumpkin Spice), this fall, here are eight spots raging against the agenda in Brooklyn.

Courtesy of Red Hook Cidery

Red Hook Cidery 

185 Van Dyke St. 

The warehouse just south of Valentino pier in Red Hook contains an embarrassment of riches. On top of the key lime pies at Steve’s Authentic, the building houses a winery, a brewery, and a cidery. Although the flavors are available year-round, this is cider’s time to shine, and at Red Hook Cidery, visitors can try, by the glass or even a flight, concoctions from all over New York State. There’s also outdoor seating if it’s warm enough, but whether you’re in or out, the cidery is right on the water with direct views of the Statue of Liberty.

Photo by Scott Lynch

Radio Bakery

135 India St./186 Underhill Ave. 

The painfully popular Radio Bakery nearly always has a line out the door waiting patiently to get ahold of some of the city’s best sandwiches, breads, pastries, and treats less definable. Everything on the menu is made in strategically limited batches, so once they’re out, it’s over for the day. But we assure you the sheer quality and creativity here is more than worth a few minutes in queue (moving at a surprisingly manageable clip, mind you), particularly at this time of year, when they’ve introduced a holy trinity of fall-inspired croissants, including ones with maple sage breakfast sausage, brown butter and apple, and salted maple walnut (respectfully).

Courtesy of Kellogg’s Diner

Kellogg’s Diner
518 Metropolitan Ave.

If you’re going to succumb to the agenda, at least try pumpkin spicing your life in new ways. Like, why not skip the Starbucks and put a pinch or more into a stack of something this year? The new management at Kellogg’s, the beloved all-hours landmark in Williamsburg, is doing just that, offering a seasonal sprinkle with pecans on both their Texas toast and cornmeal masa pancakes (both already served with honey butter and a bucket of maple syrup).

Courtesy of Dun-Well Donuts

Dun-Well Donuts
222 Montrose Ave.

Honest question: Did fall even happen if there weren’t any apple cider donuts involved? Well, you won’t have to wonder what season it is (or miss this year’s upstate orchard experience) at Dun-Well, the vegan donut shop in Williamsburg that recently made us believers in the meatless mission. This year’s seasonal variants include apple cider cake, salted caramel pumpkin, masala chai apple pie, pumpkin cheesecake, and, confusingly, a smoky maple coconut with “bacon.” More of a pickup than a sit-down spot, Dun-Well’s good for a quick treat, but it’s also kinda perfect for some of those upcoming potlucks and Friendsgiving gatherings.

Courtesy of La Cantine

Sunsets at La Cantine

60 Saint Nicholas Ave.

La Cantine is a cute French-style luncheonette serving breakfast, lunch, coffee, and baked goods daily out of an old Bushwick deli and grocery. By evening, however, it transforms into Sunsets, a sophisticated dinner program from the team, with more of a bistro/wine bar feel, complete with petit florals and white table cloths. Both services have fall-flavored treats that rotate in and out of the menu, like their pumpkin spice coupe (a Kabocha pumpkin spice custard), butternut bourguignon, or apple galette on their dinner menu. If you stop by for the morning shift, though, make that maple chai a non-negotiable.

Courtesy of Petee’s Cafe

Petee’s Cafe
505 Myrtle Ave. 

The second outpost of the Lower East Side’s venerable Petee’s Pies, sits right in between Clinton Hill and Fort Greene proper. The cafe serves hot coffee and tea and tons of pies by the slice made with only the finest ingredients (New York State grass-fed butter? Sure!), presumably to loads of Pratt media program undergrads working on their degrees across the street. In the spirit of the season, your options here are a “farm fresh” pumpkin slice, a sweet potato slice (hands down, sleeper of the season), and their classic Hudson Valley apple slice.

Courtesy of Selune

Selune
478 Halsey St.
Selune is a brand new natural wine and oyster bar in a century-old building in Bed-Stuy. And they’re warming up the neighborhood with a couple of seasonal sips. In addition to a 100-plus-bottle wine list, they’ve introduced some spectacularly enticing apple cider-based cocktails to complement an elegant menu of bistro classics, like the “Sinner Spritz,” made with pear liquor and prosecco, and the “Camp Fire,” with smoked bacon-infused bourbon rhubarb bitters.

Courtesy of Jajaja Mexicana

Jajaja Mexicana

119 Kent Ave.

Finally, one more for the plant-based folks and those that partake. Williamsburg’s Jajaja Mexicana is really leaning into these chillier months across the whole menu. On the cocktails side, they have the Pica Pumpkin, a reposado tequila drink with allspice, maple, and chile de árbol, and the Ponche y Mezcal, which includes spiced hibiscus with cinnamon, star anise, and cloves. Add their beet and pumpkin empanadas to a meal, finish it off with their autumnal take on Tres Leches, with creamy coconut, caramel, pumpkin, and cacao brownie, and call it a night.