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Food & Drink |

Feb 10, 2021

‘A grim choice’: Brooklyn service industry reacts to the new 25% rule

As bars and restaurants prepare to re-re-open, this time at 25 percent capacity, we ask the people who work in them how they're feeling

By Andrew Cotto & Brian Braiker

Few industries have felt the full brunt of life under the coronavirus quite like the restaurant industry.

Restaurant employment is down nationally by nearly 2.5 million jobs since before the pandemic began, and the industry writ large has lost some $240 billion in sales in 2020, according to the National Restaurant Association estimates. In Brooklyn, countless restaurants and restaurateurs are struggling, if not closing down completely as the winter cold has put a chill on outdoor dining in the two months since indoor seating was suspended in December.

Now, though, New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo has given the green light to re-re-introduce indoor dining at 25 percent capacity this Friday, in time for Valentine’s Day, in something of an economic Hail Mary.

And true to form for life under coronavirus, even the partial opening of places to eat and drink is being met with mixed emotions by restaurant owners and employees. Brooklyn Magazine surveyed a range of food and beverage folk in various positions around the borough to take their temperature on the re-opening.

Here’s what they had to say.

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Name: Cassie Joy
Gig: Bartender
Venue: Skinny Dennis and Rocka Rolla, Williamsburg
In her words: I’m actually pretty excited for the 25 percent to come back. It’s been a really hard and challenging year for everyone in this industry and I’m just glad to see some sense of normalcy. I know that it won’t be the same as having people fully back indoors but it shows progress. I don’t feel scared or worried about getting Covid or spreading it while I’m at work because the bars I work for have done so much to make sure that everyone is safe, especially the staff. As long as the customers who are coming in, understand the rules and follow them we should be fine and hopefully we can move forward.

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Name: Daniel Rojo
Gig: Chef/owner
Venue: Lot 2, Greenwood Heights
In his words: Reopening indoor dining before vaccines are readily available forces increasingly desperate operators to make a grim choice between employee safety and a slightly improved chance of financial solvency. It is no substitute for the relief that battered restaurants and their diverse workforce deserve.

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Name: Jason Furlani
Gig: Manager
Venue: Brooklyn Inn, Boerum Hill
In his words: I’m thrilled that indoor dining is back. The safety protocols were already in place so we’re ready to go. Hopefully the city and state will allow us to get up to 50 percent sooner rather than later. Twenty-five percent is a novelty. At 50 percent we’ll actually be doing business.

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Name: Matthew Grogan
Gig: Managing partner
Venus: Juliana’s, DUMBO
In his words: While we always have been, and continue to be, concerned about the health and safety of our staff and guests, we are also concerned about the health and safety of the business that employs our staff and serves our guests—as well as businesses around us. Although a step in the right direction, 25 percent indoor occupancy is merely a baby step and is woefully insufficient for our industry to survive, let alone thrive. And the fact that there does not appear to be a science-based rationale for treating NYC differently from the rest of the state—as well as our neighboring states—suggests that it is beyond time for our political leadership to come to their senses and allow our fellow citizens to begin to make their own choices on health and safety before the culture, character and economic vibrancy of our city is destroyed forever.

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Name: Tracey McTague
Gig: Bartender
Venue: Freddy’s Bar & Backroom, South Slope
In her words: I’ve got a mortgage and a kid, so yes, I’ll be bartending whether or not it’s safe. I’m lucky to have a job working for caring bar owners.They actually have bent over backwards to keep us safe as a staff, and haven’t paid themselves since this all started.They are an anomaly, really. And I think most workers don’t have this kind of support.

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A post shared by Cebu Bar & Bistro (@cebubarbistro)

Name: Ted Fleetwood Nugent
Gig: Owner
Venue: Cebu Bistro, Bay Ridge
In his words: We are very excited to return to indoor dining, even if only 25 percent, it’s something … however, I am still not satisfied that the data ever warranted indoor dining not to exist, nor will I ever understand that an industry that employs over 15 million people was treated with little value. The 25 percent is simply not sustainable, but I am hopeful that this is a sign that we are on the road to recovery.

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Name: Boris Bangiev
Gig: Chef/owner
Venue: Nargis Cafe, Sheepshead Bay
In his words: We are of the belief that 25 percent indoor capacity can be administered safely, otherwise we would not open. Our employees and customers are too important. Of course, maintaining the safety requirements is the hardest part as the staff has to take on a new role as an enforcer of rules, but we love what we do so we do what we must. We will all be so happy when this is over and we can open our doors and sit people down and enjoy our food and drink together without restrictions. Until then, we play by the rules.

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Name: Larry Hyland
Gig: Co-owner
Venue: Greenwood Park, Greenwood Heights
In his words: With vaccines moving at a snails pace reopening indoor dining at this point in time isn’t worth the risks involved to our staff and guests. Plus, the capacity restrictions and the senseless 10 p.m. curfew costs outweigh any potential income. It just doesn’t make sense for us to reopen under these circumstances. We will wait it out until things calm down and reopen with outdoor dining when weather starts to warm up.

Andrew Cotto

Andrew Cotto is an award-winning author and freelance writer based in Brooklyn.

Brian Braiker

Brian Braiker is the editor-in-chief of Brooklyn Magazine.

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