Sep 6, 2017
Golda Proves, Once Again, That There’s Life After Tilda All Day
The Tilda All Day team may have gone through an acrimonious divorce, but they haven’t called it quits with Clinton Hill.
And for diners determined to take a neutral stance, there is ample incentive to support both sides. Otway walked away with the sun-soaked corner space and original talent in the split, while Golda kept the essential concept—an all-day café specializing in sumptuously plated egg dishes and intricate breakfast pastries.
At the recently launched latter, owner Danny Nusbaum has a new chef in his life—Ryan Whyte—and it seems they’re already in a committed relationship. Not only are the twosome talking dinner service, but they’re looking towards the future by founding Franklin Hospitality Group, with the hope being to eventually spawn a family tree flush with multiple eateries (such as a possible spot devoted to pho).
To be sure, their chemistry is apparent. Nusbaum had always hoped to honor his Israeli roots (not to mention his father’s deli dynasty, Pick A Bagel), and the Craftbar and Public alum appears intimately acquainted with the flavor profiles, and more than up to the job. While former Dovetail pastry guru Charmaine McFarlane captivatingly flirts with Middle Eastern ingredients (resulting in cardamom custard buns, strawberry-sumac danishes and rye blondies with apricots and candied olives), Wythe earnestly dives right in, producing plates like urfa biber-spiced eggplant menemen, swirled with saffron yogurt and pelted with crisped Jerusalem artichoke, chermoula-roasted cauliflower and quinoa, arranged on a fuschia inkblot of beet tahini, and traditional Persian kuku (a frittata stained emerald by spinach and fresh herbs).
Yet Golda’s greatest contribution to Brooklyn may be a lovechild of the beloved Bacon, Egg, and Cheese, along with the bagel and lox—don’t miss the egg on a bun with poke-style smoked trout cubes and buckshots of orange roe, cemented with currant-pinenut relish.
Tilda’s estranged partners may be loathe to breach the three blocks that stand between them, but diners have been awarded joint custody, and are sure to find a happy home with both.
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