No matter how many restaurants and bars have popped up along Bedford Avenue in the last seven years, the beloved Endless Summer truck has reliably lured its fair share of hungry Williamsburg passerby, with $3 tacos and $7 burritos, stuffed with chicken, pork, beef, chorizo (or in deference to the culinary proclivities of the neighborhood), seasoned cubes of seitan. But as most mobile entrepreneurs will tell you, running a truck is more of a savvy publicity push than a legitimately self-sustaining business, so it’s no surprise that Endless Summer’s new owners (actually former fans, who saved the truck from extinction when the founders moved out West last year), have finally gone the brick and mortar route, opening a 1,000-square foot outpost last week in Bed Stuy.In an effort to avoid being pigeonholed as Mexican food purveyors, the Dekalb store will focus on sandwiches instead, offering regularly rotating options like fried catfish with red cabbage and remoulade, braised cauliflower with artichoke pesto and raisin/pine nut relish, and eggplant with broccoli rabe and romesco piled on griddled loaves of ciabatta (healthy, vegetarian-friendly sides include carrot and parsnip home fries cloaked in creamy buttermilk dressing, and a sprightly quinoa salad, tossed with almonds, tahini and watercress in a jalapeño vinaigrette).
But Endless Summer taco-lovers needn’t worry; the truck will remain at its regular location—in spite of a spate of copycats that continue to encroach on its territory—with food prep taking place in the considerably spacier Bed-Stuy kitchen, and kitschy, salvaged décor establishing a visual through line between the two (the signature, pigtailed lady painted on the side of the old truck now hangs on the sandwich shop’s walls).
As the days grow ever shorter, grayer, grimmer and colder, and seasonal affective disorder officially sets in, lord knows, we can all use a little bit of endless summer.
Endless Summer Sandwich Shop: 525 Dekalb Avenue, Bed-Stuy