Epic Meals: The Chef Table at L&B Spumoni Gardens

  • Photo Greg Miller

I’ve always been baffled by people who “are still full from the night before.” It’s a phenomenon I’ve never experienced — no matter how much I stuff in my gullet in the hours leading up to bedtime, I nevertheless greet each morning with my stomach effectively reset, recharged, and raring to go for another round.

As I write this, I’m still full from the night before.

Along with the startling realization that I am, in fact, capable of staying satiated for more than 10 hours is an even happier discovery — L&B Spumoni Gardens is aces at turning out a lot more than crusty edged squares of pizza and technicolor cups of molded ice cream. In fact, they produce some of the best ‘beyond chicken parmigiana’ Italian I’ve eaten in recent memory.

Bypassing L&B’s bustling outdoor garden for the jam-packed dining room is something I’ve only attempted once — stronger women than me have given up on waiting when the promise of instant gratification at the takeaway pizza counter is only a few steps away. So being invited to a 9pm seating at the Chef’s Table with good friends of the owners was an opportunity I jumped on — the chance to breeze past the clamoring crowd hoping the hostess would call their name next.

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