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As a food writer constantly attempting to wade through each month’s new onslaught of openings, it’s hard not to get waylaid by high-concept restaurants serving attention-grabbing dishes; at this point, who hasn’t heard of the Gorbals’ bacon-wrapped matzoh balls or chicken schnitzel, with its grasping, pomme puree-swaddled claw? And it can be equally difficult for young establishments to woo set-in-their-ways locals, whose dining trajectories are so often informed by certain self-imposed boundaries, contained to...

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