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The Commodore crew are masters at creating contemporary dive bars, that feel as though they’ve been around forever. And The Drift is no different, having materialized without fanfare back in December, on a desolate stretch of Greenpoint along the BQE. Like its forbears (including El Cortez, which erected a rising sun and a totem in lieu of standard signage, and of course, the utterly unmarked Commodore), it’s much more of an in-the-know neighborhood destination, rather...

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