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WE HAVE SPILLED MUCH INK over the years about the growing number of outstanding breweries now operating within New York City, from old standbys like Brooklyn and KelSo to promising upstarts like Other Half, Finback, Grimm, and Singlecut. Just as worthy of your attention, though, are the breweries—again, some new and some old—operating outside the city limits. If you’re willing to drive 80 miles north (or, scratch that: if you’re willing to have someone...

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