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As an inveterate dairy eater, our understanding of vegan cheese is largely limited to two lowest common denominator products—plasticine bricks of health food market-sourced Daiya, and tubs of Tofutti AKA whipped soybeans and trans fat masquerading as cream cheese. A perception, it seems, that was not all that off base—at least until fairly recently. “When I transitioned from vegetarian to vegan a few years ago, I never felt like I was missing out on anything,...

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