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The first thing to note about Goldie’s, the newcomer bar on Nassau Avenue, is its timing. Because when a neighborhood dive closes after almost nine decades in business—just as The Palace Café, across the street from it, said goodnight to Greenpoint—devastation follows. But Goldie’s had opened a week before, and alleviated collective depression. Mournful Palace overflow could spill into Goldie’s just in the knick of time. The second thing to note about Goldie’s is...