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Though brothers Max and Eli Sussman have spent the majority of their careers apart—rumple-haired Max moved from Roberta’s to Manhattan for a year-long stint at The Cleveland, while lanky, bearded Eli committed to an admirably long run at Mile End—the pair has appeared inexorably intertwined, frequently joining forces for pop-ups, and often coupling up in order to co-author cookbooks. But as far as running a restaurant goes, they’ve never officially been in business together, until...