If LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy can run a wine bar, Lady Gaga can open an Italian restaurant, and Snoop Dogg can collaborate on a Jewish soul food speakeasy (that matzoh meal fried chicken is off the hizzy), why shouldn’t a handful of synthpop artists, rappers, and NYC natives launch a Brooklyn appetizing shop?
Taking inspiration from the city’s notable roster of tribe-run eateries (Shelsky’s, Mile End, Sadelles, the ever-innovative Russ & Daughters), and their valiant attempts to make chopped liver and stuffed cabbage cool, Zach Frankel and his brother Alex, of Holy Ghost have joined forces, in order to hawk lox and whitefish in Greenpoint.
Frankel’s Delicatessen & Appetizing—which also emulates the esteemed Russ & Daughters with its expanse of immaculate white tile and row of back-lit signs, proclaiming “Bialys,” “Sturgeon,” “Sable” and “Latkes”—is actually a lot more traditional than one might expect. They sell Baz-sourced bagels with the works, Acme nova and kippered salmon, pastrami and corned beef by the pound, chocolate babka, dill-flecked bowls of matzoh ball soup, and braised brisket paired with pickled cucumbers, based on Frankel’s grandmother’s recipe.
There are also retail shelves stocked with boxes of Streits matzoh meal, flasks of kosher grape juice, and bottles of Fox’s U-bet syrup, as well as an 18-seat counter, where patrons can nosh on lox, egg and onion breakfast sandwiches, smoked meat or fish combos, and “Recession Specials”: two beef franks and a soda for $7. Just don’t be surprised to find Action Bronson noshing next to you.
631 Manhattan Avenue, Greenpoint