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This is where Peter Shapiro chose to open his family-friendly combination restaurant, bar, concert venue and bowling alley, with its spotless interior, charmingly distressed brick, candy-colored bowling balls, and huge wall of vintage carnival games. It wasn’t cheap, either, especially by the standards of Williamsburg at the time—a catfish sandwich was $14, a plate of mac & cheese $12.50, and a basket of pork rinds $9. He booked big bands, like The Roots, and waited for people to come and see them. It seemed like he’d made a huge mistake.