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The just-opened Mettā is cooking up some friendly competition for Colonia Verde in Fort Greene. Also a wood-fired Latin spot, Mettā is helmed by Norberto Piattoni, who is plumbing his native Argentina for flavor, as well as a range of “asado” (barbecue) techniques. Armed with a blistering parilla (grill), plancha (griddle) and vertical fire basket, as well as a timber-stoked oven and stovetop, he’s flexing muscles that were further honed at Francis Mallmann’s Restaurant Garzon in...