Karazishi Botan

Two decades ago, when ramen’s modern era began in this country, and in this city, we looked to the emergent genre of restaurant with great expectations. In Japan, ramen is a regional dish that changes by the prefecture. There are styles tied to specific places, broths with contents dictated by history, climate, and geography. It’s…

Last year, I wrote an impassioned manifesto on the stupidity of New Yorkers’ aversion to warm-weather ramen that sent shockwaves through New York City’s slurp curious community. Oh, wait. Never mind. A few people clicked on it, and more people scrolled through the associated Instagram carousel and commented with issues the piece addressed, then returned…