Ugly Baby is Back (and Spicy as Ever)

By Scott Lynch

Ugly Baby is located at 364 Grand Street, at the corner of Marcy Avenue, and is currently open on Tuesday through Thursday from 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m, on Friday and Saturday from 5:00 to 10:30, and on Sunday from 5:00 to 9:30 

Ugly Baby opened in Carroll Gardens in 2017, and, thanks to its unapologetically spicy Thai food, very quickly became one of the toughest tables in town. Then, at the end of 2024, that run came to an end, as all great things do, because, basically, chef Sirichai Sreparplarn needed a break (relatable). But it has since given us two excellent sequels. 

The first one came just a few weeks after the closure, when, with Sreparplarn’s blessing, a team of former Ugly Baby staffers opened Hungry Thirsty in that same extremely orange space on Smith Street. The second sequel arrived just last week, when Sreparplarn and longtime business partner Som Kharazmi unveiled an all-new restaurant in Williamsburg called, simply and obviously, Ugly Baby. 

(Photo by Scott Lynch)

The name might be the same, as is Sreparplarn’s commitment to sending out fiery, authentic Northern Thai cooking from his kitchen, but pretty much everything else here at the end of Grand Street, in the former location of Emmy Squared, is different than what you might remember from its Carroll Gardens days. On opening night, per a note attached to our menu citing “terribly unexpected short staffing,” the offerings were an abbreviated version of Sreparplarn’s vision. Still though, it seems clear that this “new wild take” on the original Ugly Baby is going to be a hit, as the place was filled with fans gleefully burning their faces off to eat chef’s food again.     

Strawberry, dried shrimp, and sweet fish sauce, $22 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

My party tried five new dishes, all big-flavored and delicious, with heat ranging from Whoa, that’s spicy to Hoooooolllly shit, I need more rice. Start with Sreparplarn’s ingenious strawberry appetizer, for which he plops the fruit onto a smear of thick, sticky fish sauce and sprinkles dried shrimp and bird’s eye chilis on top. It’s all umami and tang and sweetness and fire and will wake your palate right the hell up.          

Pad ped of hanger steak and beef tripe, $32 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

Crispy catfish and dry red curry, $32 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

The pad ped of hanger steak and beef tripe was incredibly rich, deeply funky, and honestly packed more heat than we could comfortably handle. The platter of chewy, crisp-fried chunks of catfish was also pretty intense, thanks to copious amounts of dry red curry. It’s important to note, though, that Ugly Baby isn’t just dare food, like some never-ending episode of Hot Ones or whatever. Sreparplarn is a serious chef, and however fiery his food, the flavors always come through.  

Chicken thigh and samun prai, $25 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

Kang om of pork belly and top sirloin, $30 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

Two more moderately spicy dishes offered some contrast. The soupy kang om of pork belly and top sirloin went down especially smooth when spooned over a bowl of rice (which can, and should, be refilled often throughout your meal). And the bright and herbaceous chicken thigh and samun prai is a great way to experience Sreparplarn’s punchy creations without getting knocked back in your seat. 

The space has room for about 70, at tables in two dining areas (the lively, street-level room is the move; the basement feels a little too dark and moody for me) and at the bar. This is a huge upgrade from Ugly Baby One, as is the addition of hard booze, which you can get mixed into a bunch of Thai-vibing $20 cocktails. Wines by the glass or bottle, and Ugly Baby’s celebrated beer list (more than 25 choices!), are also available.