Bong is Serving Some Staggeringly Good Khmer Food. Best of Luck Getting In.

By Scott Lynch

For about eight years chef Chakriya “Cha” Un ran one of the best, most sought-out pop-up operations in town. Called Kreung, after the paste of lemongrass, galangal, and Makrut lime leaves that form the foundation of much of Khmer cuisine, Un’s roving outfit combined unapologetically bold and frequently delicious dishes with a determination to create community wherever they went. You didn’t just show up to eat and run at a Kreung jam. You came to party.

And even if you never got to eat at Kreung, maybe you’ve spotted Un and their partner Alexander “Chapi” Chaparro rollerblading through the streets of Brooklyn? Or Cambodia?

Anyway, when Un and Chaparro signed a lease on the former Ursula space in Crown Heights in early 2024, the beginnings of Bong were in place. “We are so excited to feed you, party with you, and make a beautiful place for Khmer food in New York City,” Un wrote in a Go Fund Me plea at the time. And when Bong finally opened, softly, as a reservation-only “private event” space in June of this year, it felt like their dreams had indeed come true.

A very sexy Bad Bunny painting (Photo by Scott Lynch)

First of all, Bong—which, roughly translated, means “older sibling,” but can be used as a term of respect and endearment for pretty much anyone—is filled with art and other creations from their friends. From the chunky coat hooks on the wall to the netted cardboard fish hanging from the ceiling to the sexy Bad Bunny Instagram post rendered in paint above the bathroom door, “everything in here was made with love by someone we know,” as Un told my buddy Luke for Edible Brooklyn. There’s even an altar by the front door where guests, if they choose (and if they understand what’s going on), can offer blessings to the space.

(Photo by Scott Lynch)

Bong itself is tiny, with seating for only about 20 packed inside, mostly on squat, backless stools (they’ve also been putting a table or two outside on a sidewalk “patio” when weather permits), and a semi-open kitchen where chef Un does her stuff. Fueled in part by the couple’s infectious conviviality, the close quarters add to the festive vibe of the place (that, and a banging soundtrack).

Most importantly, the food at Bong is fantastic. Just big winners all up and down the menu of Khmer classics and secret family recipes. Un’s mom visited in Bong’s early days and helped refine a few dishes, like her signature show-stopper “Mama Kim’s Lobster,” which you’ve likely seen on your Insta feed. 

Golden squid with salted duck egg, $22 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

When we went on opening weekend, my two-top by the window got quickly crowded with wine glasses and share plates and sauces, and everything we ate was swoon-worthy. The menu is still evolving and growing, but if you see the Golden Squid, get it—the cephalopod here is lovely and soft, and it hits the table dripping with salted duck egg and scallion oil.

Bone-in heritage pork chop, $42 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

Crispy whole fish, $36 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

Un’s bone-in pork chop is a pig dish for the ages: fatty, sweet, juicy, hefty, and covered in a chunky tuk trey ping poh, or fish and tomato sauce. Equally good and almost as large is the crispy whole fish, a perfectly cooked and hatch-sliced-to-share dorade served with a trio of addictive sauces and a pile of lettuce leaves and herbs for wrapping.

The clams, $28 (Photo by Scott Lynch)

And the clams! Oh my god, the clams. You get a big pile of beautiful bivalves lolling in a sour tamarind sauce with strips of celery and eggplant. This dish goes especially well when spooned over a side of Bong’s chewy white rice. Oysters, fried shrimp, and an impressive-looking hanger steak blanketed in a tuk prahok rounded out Un’s offerings on the night we went.

So Bong is great, but here’s the thing: it doesn’t really function as a “regular” restaurant. As of now, it’s only open three nights a week, Friday through Sunday, and walk-in guests are not permitted. You must use Resy to secure a seat, and time-slots on the site seem to pop up and disappear and pop up again at random intervals. Dedication and a love of the game will probably get you inside eventually (or immediately if you’re lucky?), but the system is not designed for spontaneity. 

Bong is located at 724 Sterling Place, just west of Bedford Avenue