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It’s just past three in the afternoon on a Tuesday, shortly after schools get out, and Windsor Terrace parents—backpacked kids in tow—keep popping their heads through the door of Butterfunk Kitchen. Although they won’t officially be open until 5:30, co-owner Eugenie Woo greets them all warmly, by name, as this is a neighborhood where restaurant debuts are cause for community celebration. Especially when said eatery is a soul food mecca and rollicking juke joint, spearheaded...

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