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Having grown up in Brooklyn, it was tough to reconcile ourselves to the signature dishes of Syracuse during our university tenure, which we quickly realized was largely limited to salt potatoes — i.e. salted potatoes. Though when we cast our net a bit wider, we eventually developed a sort of captive fondness for the various regional specialties of Central New York, from Rochester’s white hots to Utica’s chicken riggies. Save for its branch of Dinosaur...