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While most restaurants nowadays chafe at being cubby-holed (quick, name a recently opened Brooklyn eatery that’s unequivocally French, Italian, or Chinese), the 10-month-old Maite in Bushwick is particularly tough to pin down. Is it Basque? The name (translated to “loved one”) indicates as much, as do the sagardotegi-style interiors—all honeyed, heavy wood and grand chandeliers—further emphasized by an admirable selection of cider. But instead of cod omelets, you’re more likely to find palm-sized empanadas...

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