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As an inveterate dairy eater, our understanding of vegan cheese is largely limited to two lowest common denominator products—plasticine bricks of health food market-sourced Daiya, and tubs of Tofutti AKA whipped soybeans and trans fat masquerading as cream cheese. A perception, it seems, that was not all that off base—at least until fairly recently. “When I transitioned from vegetarian to vegan a few years ago, I never felt like I was missing out on anything,...
  Deciding to eat vegan was relatively easy for me: I was already a vegetarian, and I never liked cheese; I was the kid at pizza parties in a corner with a plastic fork peeling off the layer of mozzarella to reveal a bounty of sauce beneath. But it seems like whenever I talk to someone about my diet, the one thing they're always hung up on—more than omelettes or steaks or Thanksgiving dinner—is cheese:...

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