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Although admirable eateries have inched their way up Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn Heights’ other commercial corridor, Montague Street, has remained an enduring anomaly—bordering the borough’s poshest of neighborhoods with a succession of low-grade restaurants. Which is why even locals would be forgiven for neglecting to register a changing of the guard, on the subterranean space cornering Henry Street. Having housed interchangeable Chinese takeout joints over the years, such as Vegetarian Ginger, 128 Dumpling House and Andy’s,...

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