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It’s often bemoaned how arduous it is to be a Jew on Christmas—in a world thoroughly perfumed by pine trees, soundtracked by carols and bedazzled with twinkly lights. And it’s equally difficult not to get covetous over the wide range of associated edibles, such as gingerbread, egg nog and goose. But being granted an eight-day pass to gorge on deep-fried potato pancakes (not to mention donuts) has always been the Chosen People’s ace in the...

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