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You can walk for a fair stretch beyond Third Avenue in Gowanus, and find yourself sharing sidewalk space with only the occasional streetwise cat. All other sentient beings, it seems, have been magically transported inside of Freek’s Mill—an oasis of exposed brick, white marble, and oysters sputtering over wood, with a dead-on view of a brass and copper factory, enclosed within a chain link fence. You might think it an unnecessary sort of pilgrimage for ubiquitous...