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“It can be hard to find a happy medium in the Jewish community,” a petite, black-haired young woman informed us last Friday night, while framed against floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the darkening, Red Hook skyline, her hands cradling a fig-flavored variant on the Moscow Mule. “Honestly, I’ve been to Shabbat services all over the city, and they’ve either been intensely orthodox, or everyone’s busy doing coke in the bathroom.” No one would mistake the attendees of...