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The Chinese Club 208 Grand Street, Williamsburg The Chinese Club wasn’t established in 1914. Not the one headquartered on Grand Street, anyway, surrounded by vintage boutiques, running gear stores, and European kitchenware shops—no matter what its yellow and red signage says. The real date is circa March 2016, although to be fair, you could probably tack on a year or two for its tenure as the critically admired (although, regrettably, not frequently enough patronized) Pasar Malam. Its...
NYC diners are a discerning bunch. We understand that the asking price of, say, roasted chicken, has a lot less to do with the cost of poultry, olive oil, and potatoes than it does the realties of rent (which, in Williamsburg, averages around $350 per square foot). What gets us ornery is the slow bleed of other, less tangible aspects of the restaurant experience, the pervasiveness of watered-down drinks, indifferent décor and insouciant service—who...
  White Tiger 601 Vanderbilt Avenue, Prospect Heights It’s been years since Korean fare made its great escape from the tight borders of K-Town, with restaurants of all stripes stocking their pantries with kimchi and gochujang, and classically trained chefs like Hooni Kim (Danji) and, more recently, Tae Kyung Ku (Oiji), relaying a refined and modern side of their native cuisine. But save for Red Hook’s much-loved The Good Fork (and its admired Korean-style steak and eggs),...
Like eager spawns of Chipotle, globally minded, casual lunch counters have lately begun proliferating around the city in earnest. Laser-focused on portability, efficiency, and various nutritional concerns, these spots generally boil down the essence of various ethnic cuisines into acetic grain bowls and whole wheat wraps, whose neatly cubed contents are tidily divided into the gleaming compartments of a steam tray. And on the surface, the Food Sermon in Crown Heights could seem like...

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