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With a knife kit hanging from a thick chain link around his hip, head butcher Lee Desrosiers steps into his walk-in at Reynard, to check on this week’s delivery. A whole cow arrives at the Wythe Hotel’s restaurant each week, and it’s Desrosiers’ task to break it down for the kitchen. He can get about 12 ribeye steaks from the animal, enough for maybe one night’s dinner service—but Desrosiers’ nose-to-tail mission means he’s just...