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It’s 10:30pm on a frosty December Tuesday, and Windsor Terrace—drowsy even during peak times—is all but battened down for the night, save for a row of Farrell’s faithful, watching the last few minutes of a basketball game. And then there’s East Wind Snack Shop, which remains fully lighted with pans still sizzling, even though owner Chris Cheung dished out his last dry-aged beef potsticker almost two hours ago. The reason for the after-hours action...
When Jesus declared that man couldn’t live by bread alone, he obviously had a prescient vision of plastic baskets at red sauce restaurants, lined with foil-wrapped butter packets, and day-old, mass-produced loaves. But if he’d peeked just a bit farther into the future, he’d see that a local, whole grain movement would eventually lead to a full-on, pro-gluten renaissance—and the following Brooklyn eateries are leading up the charge. So ignore all admonitions about filling up...

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