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It’s generally a great thing to be a neighborhood restaurant, when your surrounding neighbors have loads of disposable income. But increased area-affluence has become a double-edged sword for struggling businesses on Smith Street, who face a serious, summer-long lull once their patrons inevitably decamp to the Hamptons for the season. In fact, it’s caused a number of them to seek new leases elsewhere—including the inventive ramen shop, Dassara—which hopes to migrate closer to more...
“It can be hard to find a happy medium in the Jewish community,” a petite, black-haired young woman informed us last Friday night, while framed against floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the darkening, Red Hook skyline, her hands cradling a fig-flavored variant on the Moscow Mule. “Honestly, I’ve been to Shabbat services all over the city, and they’ve either been intensely orthodox, or everyone’s busy doing coke in the bathroom.” No one would mistake the attendees of...

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