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Chez Ma Tante may be named in honor of a Montreal frankfurter stand, but it happens to be the ideal Brooklyn restaurant. Small wonder, considering it’s owned by Josh Cohen and Blair Papagni (bonafide borough royalty), is situated in a window-ringed Greenpoint corner (that formerly housed Jimmy’s Diner and Calyer), and shares unmistakable DNA with their first baby, Anella—which helped forge a blueprint for the ultimate neighborhood establishment. It also keeps with their tradition of providing...

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