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It certainly speaks to Brooklyn’s exceptional diversity that we’re reasonably knowledgeable about Georgia--and not just that it’s a Caucasian country, as well as the peach capital of America. We’ve actually had pretty steady exposure to its singularly comforting fare, transmuting our passion for pizza into a love of khachapuri--hearth-baked, cheese-stuffed bread--and more recently, embracing amber wine as well, fermented and aged in man-sized earthenware pots. Yet for the most part, acquiring either has traditionally required...