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It’s self-evident why chefs are in their glory come spring and summer, exceedingly little is required in order to augment verdant wild ramps, voluptuous tomatoes, or ambrosial ears of corn. Fall, however, requires a whole lot more finesse, it takes real doing to cull something truly special out of shelf-stable produce like squash. That said, Brooklyn’s ambitious young restaurateurs are always up for a challenge, which is why—partly to raise our own spirits about the...
It’s funny how a smell can bring up so many feelings and memories—good or bad—for a person. Of the senses, it has the most power to bring you back to a place or to someone you once loved, and serves an emotional time machine providing jaunts down sensory lane. Though some memories should probably remain dormant, it’s kind of sweet to think that something as fleeting as the salty mist from the seashore or the...

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