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Soleil Ho

Soleil Ho is a writer, chef, and cohost of the Racist Sandwich podcast on food, race, class, and gender. She has probably folded more than 10,000 gyoza in her life thus far.
For me, writing a menu is not unlike writing an essay: I spend hours sitting on the couch with books—cookbooks in this case—and handwritten notebooks splayed out around me like a pack of sleeping puppies. Sometimes there’s a literal sleeping puppy thrown in there, too. I open each book to a certain image or flavor combination so I can easily shift my eyes between the recipe for green onion powder, a step-by-step pictorial guide...