amami

A wildly anticipated follow-up to Williamsburg’s Maison Premiere, Greenpoint’s Sauvage is one of the most celebrated newcomers of the season. Yet Amami (also a Williamsburg offshoot) occupies the same prime parcel of real estate–that would be Nassau Street, directly across from McCarren Park–and shares largely the same focus: seafood. Although instead of clam and leek terrine and squid garganelli, the Ako Sushi spin-off specializes in Japanese sliced fish, such as kampachi sashimi and layered mosaics of chirashi, prepared by chef and owner Nick Wang.

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amami

So if crowds prove prohibitive next door, there’s no forfeiture in snagging a stool along Amami’s high sushi bar instead, or usurping a communal table near a cantilevered set of floor to ceiling windows. Because even though the menu zags all over the map (encompassing izakaya-style bites like pork buns, yakitori items such as chicken gizzards, main courses including dry-aged rib-eye steak and even a selection of ramen) Wang maintains a staunch commitment to quality and admirable attention to detail, down to freshly grated wasabi and soy sauce fermented in house.

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The caliber of fish certainly speaks for itself–from rose-tinted slips of seabream to buttery blocks of otoro, portioned into austere rectangles of sashimi or tight, rice-padded coils. Wang lets loose when it comes to signature rolls, though, festooned like floats at a Carnival parade–angled on martini glasses bolstered with sprays of baby’s breath, or assembled on platters and decorative, rough-hewn boards, shimmering with a judicious application of day-glo roe. He maintains that sense of whimsy with another surprise element: brunch, besting tired standbys like benedict and pancakes with seafood okonomiyaki, spicy tuna tekka don and organic azuki bean waffles.

amami

Forget Sauvage; it looks like Amami is making an all-day play for the weekend hordes at Five Leaves.

57 Nassau Ave., (917) 909-1568

Photos courtesy of Amami website

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